Special stitch sewing machine



July 29, 1952 M. PEERSEN SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Filed April 1o, 1948 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTOR MATHIAS PEDERSEN.

ATTORNEY s if l 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 iw; Yi

M. PEDERSEN SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE July 29, 1952 Fi''alrl 10,1948

'MATHlAs PEDERSEN.

mmf/3,' M

ATTORNEY M. PEDERSEN SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE July 29', 1952 Filed April 1o, 1948 4 sheets-shea s MATHIAS PED-EYRSEN.

INVENTOR 2' ATroRNEY July 29, 1952 M. PEDERsl-:N

SPECIAL sTIIcH SEWING MACHINE 4 sheets-sheet 4 'Filed Apr i1 10,y 1948 .INVENTOR MATHIAS PEDERSEN.

@ai N@ md 5 dy. ATTORNEY Patented July 29, T952 2,604,863 SPECIAL STITCH SEWING MACHINE Mathias Pedersen,v` Valley Stream,

to American Machin N. Y., assignor e & Foundry Company, a;

corporation of New Jersey Application April 1o, 194s, seria1N0.2o,19s

s2 claims. (01.112-1'71) This invention relates to sewing machines,` and L more particularly to sewing machines capable of making special types of stitches either for decorative or utilitarian purposes, especially the type in which a double pointed needle, provided with a thread having a loose and a xed end, is projected back and forth through the work fed either manually or automatically over awork supporting table into the Arange of action of the needle. i

This invention consists Vfurther 'in improvements in sewing machines of the type illustrated .1nv Johnson Patents 2,368,066; 2,386,800 and .2,389,151, and particularly to improvements in mechanisms for decorating coats of all types, mens and Womens suitsand other 'garments Ywhere this type of decoration is desired.

The mechanism constituting a part of the present invention which is useful in forming angle stitches, makes possible the formation of a particularly desirable angle stitch because of the fact that a larger proportion of the thread forming each stitch is disposed within the cloth being decorated,.and also it is possible to make extremely ne stitches, such that the stitches made by this mechanism closely simulate hand pricking The present invention also consists o1 improved mechanism for selectively producing various types of stitches at the will of the operator.

It also includes novel mechanism for handlingt;

the thread and preventing it from being spitted or broken bythe needle, or. the thread puller which pulls the loose end' of the thread through the v Work during the formation of each stitch."

It is therefore an object of my invention .to pro-Ii vide an improved sewing machine having-novel means for selectively changing from one type `of stitch to another. Y

My invention consists further in the provision of a novel method of forming angle stitches, shortaf and long stitches, and successions of normal or standard stitches, dependent upon the'willof the operator and the type of work to be decorated,'and in selectively operated mechanism for accomplishing these results.

*The invention consists of a pr'ovslon'of improved angle stitch forming mechanismwhich is capable of more closely approximating hand sewing andwherein a variety ofy angle stitches can be made vaccording to thewish of the op--ii4 erator and by the use of simple adjustingfand.

' changing devices'.

A furtherV object of the invention is to provide v.improved angle stitch forming mechanism and 'means for incapacitating lthis' mechani'smff it.:

is desired to discontinue-.angle stitching and-form short and long' or standard length over .and under slip stitches. It has been found particularly desirable to be able to incapacitate thelangle stitch mechanism during the vdecorating of a garment, especially in cases where it is desired to'sew around sharp turns as in the corner of a lapel of a coat or the like. By the use of the improved mechanism of this invention, this result can be lo' readily obtained.

`nism during operation; f; .Figurefla is a view taken vOnline llallcol' The invention is also characterized by theprovisionof an improved thread trap and a thread support which 'are mounted .beneath the work support table in relatively; close proximityto the needle, and meansforY displacing ofv thread i out of the path of the needle into a threadtrap and 'onto the thread support, so that due tothe operation of the threadgpullerfwhich pulls the loose end of the thread through the-Work, .the danger of breakage of 'thread is greatlygminimized and substantially eliminated.

With these and other objects in view but, ,fnot specically mentioned-the invention cons istsin the novel method-and certain combinations and constructions which will be hereinafter fullydescribed, and thenj set forth vin-the claimsappended.. U

In the accompanying drawings which formeI part ofthis specification and in which likecharacters oi.y reference indicate the same or like parts: A Figure 1 is -a side elevation of theimprnfjed-A angle stitch mechanism;

Figure 2 is a planviewof the same;r `Figures 3 and 4 are detailed-side elevationslizillustrating the actions of the-angle stltchmecha- Figure 4; j Figure 5 is an,enlarge illustrating themaking vci an angle stitch;v Figure 6 is an end elevation of the novelthread guide and trap mechanism; I

Figure -7 is an isometric viewshowingthe lower needle bar and thread l guiding mechanismln action.`

, "'Referring'to. the drawingsand particularly Figures v1 and 2, the mechanlsmfconstituting .the

present invention is adapted primarilyfriisBin Figure v-l it will be seen.. that there has'b the machine` shown in the above ,referred gto VJohnson patents, althoughit lmayehave `use in other sewing :machines capable of utilizing structure made in accordancewiththe inventio vided upper andlower needle bars spectively, which project a double pointed needle N, having an eye located between the points, back and forth through material or work to be sewed and form therein a plurality of under and over type stitches. The eye of the needle is threaded with a thread which after the rst stitch is made, has a fixed and a loose end. During thesewing .operations and'after theforination of each stitch, "the loose end of the thread is pulled through the work in known manner. The mechanism for operating the needle bars, thread puller and other threadhandling means in general can be of the same type as that described in the above referredito Johnson patents.

As is well understood inthe art, double pointed needle N is grasped alternately by chucks |92 in needle bars 98 and |09, and projected backand forth with the thread through the work. Needle bars 98, are mounted in brackets 99 connected to cam actuatedlevers (not shown) which reciprocate 44them in :proper `turned arelationfwith :th loperation of fthe fstitch Iforming mechanism Il p 'andi-other moving .Lparts i o'f 'the "machine Ain fordertoiorm the desired types -of stitches. Ref- `eren'ce'is 4vmade to Johnson VPatent 12,368,066 shows in detail lsuitable 'mechanism .for loperatingthe4 needlebars and .coacting Ameans for Apullingthe loose end of 'xthe thread `through the "Work, l

In order to advance work W `over worksupporting table 4. @and position it .properly thereon -with V:respect to-needle N, alpresserfoot |21 is *provided This iioot carries a toe |3| mounted on'fpivot pin-133m Afoot |21. A spring urged plunger-'[43 lin a vertical rbore `|31 in foot |121 normally -urges '-'toe -'|3'| downwardly to substan- 4"talils, horizontal'position such as. shown` in Figure Av3. upwardlmovement fof toe |3| is V.limited by a`sto`p`1`|4| Emountedfon foot |21. .Toe .131 is provided with Ytwo'elongated portions |39 spaced .apart a distance greater :than the diameter of theffneed-le. ,Elongated Vportions |39 overlie a l`portion-fof angle `work shifting Aand lifting plate rfor."reasons described hereinafter. `Presser "foot A'|21coopeia'tes with Van 4upper "feeding 'foot `|21 :andra lower feed plate |23 vprovided 'with a conventional toothed work feeding dog |22. Y,Plate `52fsjprovided with -a cut out 53-which allows `upperworkieeding'foot |2| andfeedingdog |22 to coactfengage work4 to be "fed while located upon plate 52 and travel it forwardly beneath kraised needle N. 'Thefconstruction andfoperation of work feeding foot |2| and the operation of presser foot-1 21 ,except -as mentionedeabove, Ycan be'substantially the-same as that lshown inv Johnson'Patent f2;389,151. n

Referring to Figures l', 2,1'3,4and 5, 'theian'gle stitch `forming mechanism designated generally v5|). consists of a work shifting and lifting -.plate Y52"`:no1interi gon or formed integrallyfwith a bracket '54 'xed'to 'a levr56 sli'dably fulcrurned at'one end on a cam-follower '58 ladapted torun in a slot -orcam 6|) in-plate52 pivo'tally mounted aries jen, brackerpmteftitmounted fon bracket y'Sii suitably secured to frame 2 of thefrnachine. .flhepther end of lever 5,6 is pivoted to-an .arm 51fulcrumedonarstude59 on member 21|.Y Slot 1151!; which functions as 4a pusher cani, is vinclined .downwardly to :the left, as viewed in Figure 1. arrangement providesv what may betenned va roatin'g. mountfor lever 56 V'which supports workjincliningplate' of the angle stitch formlingfmechanismjp The operation ofplate`52 l lwith respect to work AW'isV such that, as shown 'in Figure 5, every time needle-N is passed up- ,jecting into an opening wardly through the work, the portion of the work to be stitched is inclined at an acute angle with the path of travel of the needle therethrough. Preferably the work is positioned in a plane substantially parallel with the axis of the needle. This arrangement makes it possible to dispose the major portion of the thread forming each anglestitch in the. work. At`this time, toe |3| is raised to the position shown in Figures 4 and 5 due to the upward movement of plate 52.

When needle N is held by upper needle bar 98,

plate 52 .is returned to its inoperative or substantially horizontal position relative to work support'ltable v4, Vas viewed in Figures l and 3.

"Feed ioot.` |2| and'feed bar |22 are then operated to-'a`dvance"thework beneath upraised needle N, ,'andfwhen lneedlebar 98 again moves downwardly,

needle N is passed through substantially horizontally positioned work W completing the stitch.

The mechanism for .operating plate 52 consists of :an :adjustable ,connecting rod '88, oneend of which .is secured at 1:0 to lever 56.- ,Thepther 1d 'of lever y15 pivotally mounted'at 16 on-bracket 18 ysuitably attached to frame l2. A collar`8 Yfastened to this-end of rod 68, prevents its removal -from'bore 12. A collar 82 also attached to rod 68 forms'an abutment which is engaged by the upper faceof the vportion of'arm 14 encircling rod 68. A spring 84 encircling rod 68 engages collar 8U on rod 68 andthe portion of the lower faceof arm'14 which encircles rodr68.' ASpring '81'. is employed to provide tension and allow arm 14 to vcontinue its downward Amovement when Vplate A52 and .the work held thereby lpress :.up-

tially horizontal position, as shownin Figures l and 3, `to :inclined position,:as shown .infigures 4 vand .5. VIn this way, vvthe portion ofthe work to 'be stitched is lmoved toward the needle kand also given' a substantially'simultaneous upward movement relative to the needle. The lcombined movements give the most 'eicient angular inclination of 'the .portion of 'the work to fbe stitched `relative to needle N. 'The znal .arrangement of thread T `forming reach complete stitch .is'illustrated in Figure 5.

Plate V|32 isfprovided with Aan opening A[i5 :in which islocated one end of a spring 61, the other 'end of which is Seated in a `bore B9in support member 1| adjustably secured to plate 64 by clamp screw 13. A pin Hon-plate 62 pro- 19 `in bracket plate 64. limits turning movement-of plate 62 due to the action of lever '5B andspring 61. Spring 611profollower, such as roller 88fwhich runs cnn-cam 90 fixed to shaft 205. Aspring 92 having one endzattached to' arm 94 of lever 15, and .its other end secured to bracket 93 onframe 2, maintains cam follower 88 in engagement with vcam snart zus is driven by gearvzzs fixed Amaar,

voperation of the driving mechanism do not form a specific part of the present invention, further illustrations and descriptions are omitted in the interests of brevity.

If itis desired to make a succession of standard over and under or slip stitches, wherein all stitches are of substantially the same length, angle mechanism 50 can be incapacitated. In this case, an angle stitch throw-out rdevice is employed. vA preferred type of mechanism for' accomplishing this purpose is shown in Figures 1 and 2. VArm 94 of lever 15 is provided with a bore |04 through which extends a threaded end |05 of connecting rod |06 on which are secured nut |08 and lock nut 0. The other threaded end of rod |06 is adjustably secured in head |2 pivotally attached by pivot pin ||5 to lever H4 fixed to'shaft ||8 supported by brackets |20 suitably attached to frame 2. A lever |24 fixed to shaft ||8 is connected by an adjustable rod |25 to,foot treadle |26. Adjustable stop screw ||9 suitably mounted in lever ||4 adapted to engage abutment |29 on frame 2, limits the downward movement of treadle 26.

Also attached to shaft ||8 is a lock armV |28,

' which, when treadle |26 is depressed, engages a stop pin |30 on arm |32 secured to shaft or shank |34 of slotted cam member |36, described hereinafter, mounted for turning or oscillating movement in suitable bearings in frame 2 (Efigure Therefore when treadle |26 is depressed.

2). varm |32 and shaft |34 cannot move and cam |36 is locked against movement. A spring |38 having one end attached to a reduced portion of pivot pin ||5, and its other end fastened to a pin |40 mounted in a bracket |42 secured to frame 2 raises treadle |26 and disengages lock arm |28 from engagement with pin |30.

The size of stitch formed during the operation of angling mechanism 50 depends upon the adjustment of vnuts |80, |82 which control the operating positions of slotted cam member |36. When nuts 80, |82 are adjusted in accordance with the length of stitch to be formed, and the machine is operating, slotted cam member |36 is oscillated to control the movement of lower. feed bar |23 having secured thereto a toothed feed bar |22, which in known manner, is adapted to be moved upwardly through a slot in table 4 of the machine and coact with upper feed foot |2| and a presser foot |21 in feeding the work to and past needle N. After moving upwardly into engagement `with the underside of the work, bar |22 is given a forward movement to advanceit along the table beneath the raised needle.V Followingr this movement, bar |22 moves downwardly disengaging the work, and back to a position where it is ready to travel upwardly again. The mechanism for effecting the desired movement of feeder bar |22 and its supporting lower vfeed bar |23 is substantially the same as that shown in Johnson Patent 2,368,066. However, in1order .to make clear the operation of the mechanism as used in this invention, a brief description is given.

Referring to Figures 1 and 2 of the drawings, one end of lower feed bar |23 is pivotally connected to link 2| 4 pivotally connected to one arm of a bell-crank lever 2|6 mounted upon a suitable pivot 2|8. The other arm of bell-crank lever 2| 6 is pivotally connected toa lever 220 provided with a Acam follower 222 which rides in cam slot |35 in slotted cam member |36. The free end of lever 220 is 'provided with an elcngated slot in which rides a, cam roller 224 secured to a crank pin 226 projecting from cam 221 mounted on shaft 228.

Also pivotally connected to work feed bar |23 at 229 is one end of an adjustable link 230 having its other end pivotally attached at 232 to one arm of bell-crank lever 234 loosely mounted on shaft |34 of slotted cam member |36. The other arm of lbell-cranklever 234 is provided with a cam follower 236 tracking cam 221. Shaft 228 is suitably driven in proper timed relation with the several operating parts of the machine so that the combined movement of bell-crank levers 2|6 and 234 results in the desired substantially four motion path of travel of the work feed bar |23 and toothed feed bar |22 carried thereby.

Concurrently with the operation of angle stitch forming mechanism, slotted cam member |36 is rocked to cause alternate stitches or stitches of substantially equal length to be formed. The oscillation of slotted cam member |36 is effected by means of cam |84 fixed to shaft 205. Tracking cam |84 is a `cam followerr |86 on lever |88 pivotally supported on stud |90 mounted onbracket |9| attached to frame 2. Slidably connectedv to-the freeend of lever |88 is a connecting rod |92 having a collar |94 fixed adjacent one end thereof. Aspring |96encircling rod |92 bears against one face of lever |88 and a collar |98 attached to rod |92. Theother end of rod |92 extends through a bore in an angular extension |99 of a link 200, vand into a bore 20| formed therein. Spring 202 encircling rod |92 presses against a face of extension |99 and collar 201 secured to the end of rod |92. Link 200 is pivotally connected to Vlever |19 on shaft |34 by an elongated pivot pin 204. A spring 206 having one end attached to lever |88 and the other secured to pin 208 mounted in bracket 2|0 mounted on frame 2, maintains cam Vfollower |86 in constant engagement withr vcam |84.

It will be seen that for each revolution of cam |84, slotted cam member |36 is shifted between two limits, which, depending upon the-adjustment of nuts |80, |82, results in the formation of alternate stitches of different length, or a succession of stitches of the same length.

Referring to Figure l, it is evident that whenever treadle |26 is depressed, lever 15 s rocked in a clockwise direction, and cam follower 88 is moved out of engagement with cam 90. This action prevents the operation of angling mechanism 50, and, of course, movement of angling plate 52. Hence so long as treadle |26 is depressed, no angle stitches are formed. The machine however, continues to operate and forms a series of standard stitches.

The length of the standard stitches made at Vthis time depends upon the angular position of arm |32 on shaft |34. As shown in Figure 1, when lock arm |28 engages pin |30 and clamps arm |32 against further movement, slotted cam .fi coatglapeli.: Ifianglefstitcheszwere to bernade at y this" -time, the-spacing f woulcl:V be; y.unsatisfactory f rand the -scughtfor "effect' .wouldf be: lost; r Howxever, since thecanglefstitching mechanismv can `betemporarilyincapacitated,inorrnal or standard work.

Atftimes it: may befa'dvantageous to:discon tinue` the formation of. i angle .stitches, and 'form 1*. only 1 alternate: longxnand .short stitches.v l This i .change can be effected byrnountingahook 209 .on'avpivot pin 2I:| onlever.: arm 86::1When lever f"f-.arm. 86 isV moved to :.disengage cam .follower 88 ."from .cam .90; .and 'hooki209 is 1 moved into -engagenient` withping12 I 2 Lone-'frame --2-; tangle stitch mechanism 50. wllbe locked hout off operation. 1inV thisl icase continued rotation of i shaft .2 05 and cam |84 thereon .willcause rod..|92 to be recipfnut |80 is providedwith a reduced portion 1 which fits in anopening nfbracket |85. attached -fadjustment will'cause thefends i.26|.;and 263 of slots V258;'and 260, respectively,

1 short and/orrlongfstitches;

sti-tches of mth'e'wsame lengthY isffirequired; nuts camslot |35 is Y is at a maximumand the 'jlongestl'stitch can be -J'- -formecL y rocated and alternatelong and 'short stitches vwill berformed.

The length offstitchesfformed. can be adjusted by changing the/.position of slotted cam' member |36; As shown in Figures land 2;'two`adjusting -rods 250, y252 are provided. Onezend ofeach of 1 these rods isthreadedinorder to accommodate adjusting nuts l|80, |82"respectively.Y Adjusting |8| to'bracket |9I. VAdjusting nut1|82 is'formed with a. similarly reduced portion'zl83. Arplate|81 is suitably `attached to fthelunder face. ofA `bracket |85.` In4 thismannernuts |80', |82 are-main- `tained .in operatingv position.

If' desired, 'the iend -zportion of'zthreaded .rods

` 250, 252canl baprovidedz` with spaced `lines or calibrations 253v whichfindicate the. length of stitch required; VForm'edgon the other 'ends' of rods 250, V252, or suitably:attacl'iedV v`thereto, are

' 'elongated-headsf254g'258,fhaving'slots 1258,' 250 through which :extendsh pivot-pin 2 04. i It is'evident thatl when either or'both 'screws '180,1182 is turned, either-clockwise or counter "clockwise onritsrespective rodfhead'254 and/or head '25S`will bemoved to theleft Yor right; as

viewed in Figure 2;'depending upon thedirection in which nuts L|80 and/or r|82 isfturnedl This 258 and-265, or to limit theswing ofspivotipinf204-underfthe'action .fo'f cam |84 dependingrupon'the type of'flongshort stitches. desired; 'and whether' ar'longor short stitch is to appear. on theexposed :surface I i 'of thework'. The provision of'elongated 'slots VA 1258, 260 in" heads"254;":256 :makes -possible the provision ofY controlled? amounts' of lost motion necessary to the. jformation' If a'zsuccession of 180,182 areadjusted. Soi thatfpin 204 isfipre- Evented from? oscillating;.whereuponslotted cam member 36ismaintained inits 'adjustedposition during the time themachine iszbeing operated.

' Obviously, by means oi fthe:adjusting/'structure f described, the positionl ofslotted: cam .member 35 |35 can bel soladjustedf that a-$wide .variety of stitch lengths-can be made *It is evidentfthat Y- horizontal movement 'of lower -feedl `bar'l23 is at -a minimumwhen carri slot|35 issubstantially vhorizontal andthe shorteststitch'is made.V When vertical, the -throw of bar '|23 ;-f-During;themoperation of-.the machinel when the adjustment of nuts `180, |82 .allows .the position of cam slot |35 to shift, it is evidentthat alternate. stitches of different lengths. will. be formed. By suitably adjusting the .position` of nuts |80, |82, the length of thread visiblev on lthe surface ofthe Work being stitched, may be shorter than that portion of the thread forming the next stitch on the undersurface of the work. or vice versa.

It is important to maintain the threadout of the path of movement ofthe needle .beneath table 4 and prevent spitting of the threadV by pulled. through the work W by threadpuller V283, is an improved thread guide and trap. device designated generally 210. See Figures 5 and 6. This device consists of a thread guide, which may be a rod 212, suitably attached to and projectingroutwardly from member 21| secured to frame 2. Thread guide and trap device 210 is positioned above the thread supporting drum 209. Thread puller 203 and the thread supporting drum 209, indicated in Figure 3, `are of the same construction .and operate in the same manner as shown in Johnson Patent 2,368,066. Rod 212 is formed'with a substantially horizontal part 213 and a downwardly inofcpredetermined clined part 214.

Mountedon member 21| above guide rod 212 is a co-operating trap forming a guide such as rod 216. Rod 216 is provided with a substantially horizontal portion 211, a substantially vertical part 218, a portion 219 parallel to `part 213 of rod 212, and a turned up nose portion 280.

Secured at 282 to frame 2 beneath table 4. is a thread lint trap and guide 284 provided with a vertical flange 286 and a substantially horizontal plate section 288 which catches lint dropping from the work and thread as the result of needle N moving with the thread through the work. Plate section 288 has a cut `out portion 289'which allows lower needle bar |00 to move up and down beneath table 4. It is also provided withl an upstanding projection 290 which tends to hold lint on plate section288, and a tapered thread guide 292.

During the oper'ation'of thread puller 203 about vdrum 209 in dotted lines in Figure 3, in pulling is guided up the inclined face of guide 292 into the space between the rear face of guide '292 and flange 286. At the same time the thread is moved between rods 212 and 219 and upwardly into the space between rod portion 218 and frame 2, where it isheld by linger 294 onthread shifting or displacing member 296. While so held; the loose end of the thread is clear of the path of 'movement of needle N. "When thread lpullerA 203V has completed its thread pulling operation in' which the loose end L ofthe thread iszdisposed on the thread receiving drum'-(not shown) displacing A'member :296;mcves 'from-v .the

. l,l1 said trackY for vcontrolling the movement of vsaid mount, and means-formoving said mount to trfavel'saidY cam follower along'said cam track to. impart a combined upward and longitudinal movement to said member .whereby a portion of Work'to be stitched is positioned at an angle with-the horizontal.

AAV12. In a sewing machinastitch formingmechani'sm, comprising a work shifting member, a movable mount for said member, a cam coacting with said mount for controlling the movement of -said mount,l andmeans for moving said mount along said cam to impart a combined yupward and longitudinal movement to said platewhereby a-portion of work to be stitched is positioned at an'angle with the horizontal.

- 13. 'In a sewingmachine, stitch forming mechanism comprisinga work shifting plate, .a support for 'said plate, a `movablelmount for said support, a cam follower. on said mount, a slotted cam-track engagedV by said cam follower on said mound-and means for moving 4said mount to travel said cam follower along said cam to impart a combined upward' and longitudinal movement to said plate whereby a selected portion of work to be stitchedis positioned at an angle with the horizontal.

14. In a sewing machine, the combination with a work support table, of a needle and opposed needle `bars adapted to project said needle with saidthread through work to be stitched, work feeding mechanism for moving said. work over saidtable .to and pastsaid needle, a work shifting member, .a support for said member constructedand arranged to maintain said member in inoperative position substantially in the plane of :saidstableduring.azportion of each cycle of operation ofsaidimachine, and operating mechanism, for Valternately .moving said member upwardly out of the plane .of said table against the underside of .a limited portion of said work to y disposesaid portionofsaid work angularly relativegtothemlane of said table prior tothe movement-of` said needle .throughfsaid angularlv` posi- ,onedportion Qfsaidwork.

i 1 5... Angle stitch forming mechanism fora sewing 'n1 z a.cl 1- r ie4 provided withA a workv support table, andopposedneedlebars for alternately projectluga doubl e poi nted,needleand a vthread back 'an forth, through, work to be stitched; a work ingdplatevmountedin an, opening Vin said tek ,means operativi@ when, 4said needle is held by o e of said needle bars beneath said tablefor moving said plate upwardlvto incline a selected portinof usaid work at an angle with the path of' tr vl'frwsaid needle, and' means adaptedvto 4:fihi/""'aid"last'fnamed needle bar upwardly through 4saidA inclined portion "of said work.

`1 6. In mechanism of the type defined in claim '15,"ffmeans" operative after the passage of said needle through said inclined portion fsaid work forfmoving saidplate downwardlyjnto said opening4 in saidtable4 work feedingineens,` and means for 'fopeia'tin'g`-v saidr work feeding means to ad- "vence"said"workv past the path of travel of-said 'needleprior 'to'thedwnward movement of said needle and 'while said plateis'located in said openine.-

lef 'sttchfrm'irig' mechanism for a sewing machine'com'prising 5a work shifting plate, a support for said plate,A a movable mount for saidjsupport va cani for. controlling the movement of said'mount, means for moving said mount along said cam to npnt a combined upward and-longitudinal movement t'o` said platev whereby a selected portion'of work to Vbe"stiifched tioned at an angle withV the horizontal, 'work feeding mechanism, means for operating said work Vfeeding mechanism aftera needle hasbeen projected through said selected portion vo fsaid work to advance said work past'the path of't'ravel of said needle, and means for controlling'the amount of movement of said work feeding mechanism to vary the length of stitch to be madein said work.

18. In a mechanism defined in claim 17,"selec tively operated mechanism for incapacitati'n'g said means for moving said mount whereby vnormal over and under stitches are made.

19. Stitch length controlling mechanism'comprising a work feeding device, Vmeans for operating said work feeding device to move' wo'rkto be stitched into and out 'of the path of inov'ement of a needle, an "oscillatable shaft,`a"work feeding mechanism control device mounted on said shaft, a lever attached'to said shaft, 'an operating link attached -to said lever, Va cam actuated lever attached to one end Aof 's'ai`d'linlan elongated adjusting pin projectin'gfrom "s'aid first-named lever, an adjusting rod having a slot through which said pin extends, a second'adjusting rod having a slot through which said pin extends, and means for adjustingth'e position of said slots in said'rods relative to 'said pin to control the limits of oscillation of'said control device.

20. Stitch length controlling mechani'smfor" a sewing machine work feeding device V4minimising means for operating said devicel for feeding work into 'and out of the-range of operation'of "a reciprocatory nneedle,V an o'scillatable 's'haft, a work vfeed control member mounted'on'said shaft, a lever secured tosaid shaft, a'cam'actuated lever, a link connecting said first-named Vlever and said cam actuated lever,`said link being'pr'ovided with resilient take-up connections, v"means for adjusting the limits of movement Y`'of 4said work feed control member for forming alternate stitches of predetermined length. a

21. In a stitch length controllingmechan'ism as defined in claim 20, a lock for locking-'said work feed control member to make uni/form stitches of a predeterminedlength, said lockcomprising a lock arm on-said shaft, and fai-'selectively operated member movable into engagement with said arm to prevent substantial movementof said feed control member.

'22. The method of forming anglefstitchesin work to be stitched comprising moving work to be stitched into the range of operation ofa needle, inclining a limited selected -portion0f said work at an angle tothe plane of the main portion of said work and a substantially` simultaneously therewith advancingfsaid inclined portion of said work towardsfthe path of travel of said needle, and while said limited selectedportion of said work is so inclined and on one-movement only of said needle passing said Aneedle through said Vinclined portion of -said work.

23. The method of forming-angle stitches work to be stitched comprising 1- moving work tobe stitched into the range-of operationiofaI needle, inclining a limited selected portion of said work at an vangle to the plane-of ther'main portion of said work and substantially simultaneously therewith advancing said inclined por.- tion of said worktowards the -path oftravel'of said needle, passing said needleV through-[said inclined portion of said work onone movmnt'of said needle, moving said' stitchedportionhf "Said 13 work away from the path of said ndle and on the next movement of said needle passing said needle substantially at right angles through said work prior to the formation of the next angle stitch.

24. The method of forming stitches in work to be stitched comprising moving said work into the range of operation of a needle, alternately inclining a limited selected portion of said work at an acute angle to ythe path of travel of said needle and substantially simultaneously therewith advancing said inclined portion of said work towards said path of travel of said needle, passing said needle in one direction through said inclined portion of said work, positioning said stitched portion of saidl work in a substantially horizontal plane substantially coplanar with a portion of the unstitched work, moving said stitched portion of said work away from the path of travel of said needle, passing said needle in the opposite direction substantially at right angles to said substantially horizontally positioned work to complete said stitch, selectively maintaining said work being stitched in a substantially horizontal plane and forming a plurality of over and under stitches therein, controlling the amount of movement of each portion of said work to be stitched past the path of travel of said needle in order to control the length of stitch formed therein, and again alternately inclining portions of said work at an acute angle to the path of travel of said needle to dispose thread therein at an angle to the surfaces of the work being stitched.

25. In a sewing machine, a work feeding mechanism, means for operating said work feeding mechanism to move work to be stitched into and out of the path of movement of a needle, means adapted to engage one surface only of selected portions of said work and incline said portions of said work at an acute angle to the path of travel of said needle through said work, a work feeding mechanism control device, and means for adjusting said control device to vary the length of stitch being formed in said work.

26. In a sewing machine of the type provided With opposed needle bars adapted to operate alternately and project a double pointed needle and a thread having a xed and a loose end through work to be stitched, a work support table having an opening, a work inclining member, mechanism for positioning said member in inoperative position in said opening in said table during a portion of the operation of said machine, including means for moving said member upwardly beneath a portion of said work adjacent the path of travel of said needle to locate said portion of said work at an acute angle with said needle, means for moving said member towards said needle, means operative to move one of said needle bars to project said needle through said angularly positioned work portion, an oscillatable shaft, a work feeding mechanism control device mounted on said shaft, a lever attached to said shaft, an operating link attached to said lever, a cam actuated lever attached to one end of said link, an elongated adjusting pin projecting from said first-named lever, an adjusting rod having a slot through which said pin extends, a second adjusting rod having a slot through which said pin extends, and means for adjusting the position of said slots in said rods relative to said pin to control the limits of oscillation of said control device.

27. In a machine as defined in claim 26, means for incapacitatingfsaid member during selected periods of operation of said machine whereby athe underside of selected limited portions of said work to incline said portion of said work at an` angle with the horizontal during the formation of alternate stitches in said work.

29. In a stitch forming mechanism for a sewing machine, a work support table, a needle bar adapted to project a needle and a thread through work to be stitched, a tiltable work inclining plate, operating mechanism for said plate, comprising means for alternately positioning said plate substantially in the plane of said table, and for inclining said plate upwardly against the underside of selected limited portions of said work to incline said portion of said work at an angle with the horizontal during the formation of alternate stitches in said work, said mechanism including a cam, a cam lever having a follower tracking said cam. and a link connecting said lever and said plate.

30. In a stitch forming mechanism for a sewing machine, a work support table, a needle bar adapted to project a needle and a thread through work to be stitched, a tiltable work inclining plate, operating mechanism for said plate. comprising means for alternately positioning said plate substantially in the plane of said table. and for inclining said plate upwardly against the underside of selected limited portions of said work to incline said portion of said work at an angle with the horizontal during the formation of alternate stitches in said work, said mechanism including a cam, a cam levei having a follower tracking said cam, a link connecting said lever and said plate, and a resilient connection between said link and lever-constructed and arranged to maintain said plate in yielding engagement with each portion of said work inclined thereby.

31. In a stitch forming mechanism for a sewing machinea work support table, a needle bar adapted to project a needle and a thread through work to be stitched, a tiltable work inclining plate, operating mechanism for said plate, comprising means for alternately positioning said plate substantially in the plane of said table, and for inclining said plate upwardly against the underside of selected limited portions of said work to incline said portion of said work at an angle with the horizontal during the formation of alternate stitches in said work, said mechanism including a cam, a cam lever having a cam follower tracking said cam, and a link connecting said lever and said plate, a manually operated rod connected to said lever for selectively moving said follower away from said cam to prevent movement of said plate to inclined position.

32. In a stitch forming mechanism for a, sewing machine. a work support table, a needle bar adapted to project a needle and a thread through work to be stitched, a tiltable work inclining plate, operating mechanism for said plate, comprising means for alternately positioning said plate substantially in the plane of said table.

15 and fforfinclifning said plate upwardly, againstthe underside-1 ofseleoted limited portions of: vsaid work to incline Asaid portion of said-Workat an angle with the horizontal during theformation of alternate stitches in said work, said mechanism including. a lever having a cam follower trackingsaidocam, .and a link;=connecting said leverand said plate, a manually operated. device connected to saidllever for moving saidffollower Vaway from saidoam to interrupt tempo,-

rarily the formation of stitchesthrughinclined' portions ofisaid Work, whereby relatively short over and yunder stitches are formed, andoother means onpreventing the movement ofsaid plate whereby a succession of normal over and under stitches can be fformed.

MATHIASPEDERSEN.

REFERENCES. Quel@ vUNITEDv STATES VF'A'E'EN'TS 

